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Make Your Bathroom Renovations Easier


Get a Bathroom That Looks and Feels Amazing

As Seen On
by Jeff Patterson in DIY Bathroom Remodel

How many of us talk about replacing our 1970s bathroom with a new one…

…yet never quite realize that dream?

For example, I bought a 60 year old home that had a tub from 1977. Don’t get me wrong, that was a great year…Star Wars, Rocky, you get the point.

I put up with that tub until it started to fall off the wall.

Then one day I tore it apart.



Your Turn

What are you struggling with right now with your bathroom?

Tell me in the comments and we’ll help you out.


Jeff Patterson





P.S. IMPORTANT HOUSEKEEPING: I love sharing what Steve and I know but sometimes our emails get lost in internet limbo.Ā 

Add my name (Jeff Patterson) and email ([email protected]) to your email contact list, e.g. Gmail, Yahoo, Hotmail, Outlook, etc.

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  1. We have a surround tub and want to replace with a riberglass soaker tub. Can we cut the surround off, leaving the existing plumbing in place (not the drain system), then just have someone tile around that? does that save any time or just make things harder?

    1. Just want to make sure I’m following your thought you want to cut the surround off but keep the existing tub?

      If that’s the case you could possibly salvage the tub if it was separate from the surround. If it’s a one-piece you need to replace the entire thing with your soaker then install Wedi or KERDI-BOARD, then tile.

      I’ll email you and make sure we’re on the same page

  2. ron says:

    have a double jacuzzi to take out but it was fitted by dropping it onto a mass of expanding foam and will not lift off. Butts up to walls both ends and rear side so only accessible from one side

    1. Hmmm, are you okay demoing the entire jacuzzi and walls against it Ron?

      If so, you can use a long pry bar (42″) to pry up on the jacuzzi and them remove the subfloor.

      What all would you like to do with your bathroom?

      1. Jim Gardeck says:

        This stuff is amazing!

        Here is my current dilemma. Replacing 25 year old fiberglass tub. Want to install a shower base. Do I go porcelain or fiberglass? Want something that will last another 25 years, but need to manage a budget.

        Thank you for information you are providing DYIEr’s such as myself.

  3. Angela says:

    I have a shower that’s so small, I’m always bumping elbows and feel chlostraphobic. I have a closet that’s just as big as the shower next to it so I’d like to extend my shower.

    1. Sorry to hear your current shower is so cramped Angela. That’s no fun.

      If you have a closet next to it you might be able to knock that down and make your shower a lot bigger.

      I’ll send you an email and we’ll take a look at it and give you some ideas.

  4. Ronnie says:

    Hello Jeff,
    We want to replace the surround in our bathroom. I believe the guy we used to replace it 8 years ago did not use the right materials and now it has started to show molding. I am asking for help with a checklist and budget.

    1. Ugh, sorry to hear that Ronnie. That stinks.

      We’d be happy to help with a checklist and budget.

      What are you looking to do with the surround…do you want to tile or install a fiberglass surround.

      And do you want to redo the entire bathroom or just the tub?

      We’ll figure it out together.

  5. Jay Addington says:

    would like to remove a standard fiberglas 60″ x 30″ tub/shower combo and install a smaller shower. ( maybe 36″x36″ )

    1. Are you looking to tile your shower Jay?

  6. ricci says:

    Hi Jeff,
    I have two bathrooms I need to remodel. The reason is the previous owner didn’t seal the upstairs bathroom floor properly. So this caused molding of the floor boards, especially near the tub and the toilet. The previous owner laid laminate wood flooring over linoleum flooring that had been cut away in certain parts causing the floor boards to be exposed to potential water damage. Which of course it was rotted from the water getting underneath the laminate wood flooring. Now we will be forced to pull up the floor boards and replace them. Plus I don’t like the shower/tub combo. The bathroom downstairs has had a lot of water damage due to what was going on in the upstairs bathroom. Plus the design of the bathroom is very poor. Could you suggest anything for our unique situation. How to remodel these bathrooms on a budget and cost effectively. My husband and I would love to do this ourselves.

    1. Oh boy, laminate in a bathroom. Well, at least you’ll get a clean beginning Ricci.

      I’ll email you and take a look at some pictures of your bathrooms.

      We can come up with good ideas on how to remodel both spaces.

      I’d recommend tile for both floors and putting DITRA under them. That way you’ll prevent the tile from cracking and if you waterproof correctly you’ll eliminate the moldy situation that happened under the laminate.

  7. Miles says:

    I am installing an “American Standard” 6 ft X 36 in soaker tub. My question is it has no verticle lip to attach nails with washers to studs that overlap lip to keep it in place? It also needs one runner shimmed to level tub although it is on a very level floor, is this ok?

    1. Great question Miles, do you have the model number?

      That way we can look at the directions and see what American Standard recommends.

  8. Jennifer Jahns says:

    I bought my family home 5 years ago. It was built in 1975. I now have an elderly person living with me that I look after. Nothing’s been updated. But everything works except the shower in the main bathroom which is his. The handle doesn’t pull out anymore. I’m told you either have to rip out the tip around it which would necessitate tearing all of it or going in from behind it which would be through my closet. I’d really like to do an affordable update with tub & flooring as well in an effort to start increasing the resale value should that ever need to happen. It’s a relatively small bathroom 5′ x 10′. Either way I need a working shower for him as going downstairs is going to eventually not be an option. I love what you’re doing to help us out here!! Thank you so very much!! BTW, I’m not married so this would be done mostly by myself. I have a nephew that will help with the plumbing.

    1. Thanks Jennifer, you’ll definitely get some great tips on how to install a new mixing valve.

      Steve makes it look easy and I think you’ll feel more comfortable after you see that video series.

      An easy way to replace the tub surround is to use either Schluter KERDI-BOARD or Wedi building panels.

      Both are easy to use, weight less than cement board, and are waterproof once installed correctly. You tile right over KERDI-BOARD or Wedi.

      A 5’x10′ bathroom won’t be too bad to remodel. And we’d be happy to answer any questions.

  9. Rob C says:

    I bought a new home about a year ago that has a garden tub and a tiled shower surround. I noticed that the tiles could be pushed in, and upon further investigation a lot of the drywall that the tiles were glued to was wet and soggy. I have removed the tiles and drywall on two sides of the surround, but I’m not sure how to remodel it properly to avoid this from happening again. Any advise would be appreciated.

    1. Awe man, sorry to hear about your troubles Rob.

      Congrats on your new home, that’s awesome.

      We can help you.

      You have several options when it comes to waterproofing the walls.

      Our favorite way to approach it is with either KERDI-BOARD or Wedi building panels.

      Both are easy to install and save time remodeling…the Wedi panels in particular.

      Did you want to re-tile your shower?

  10. Tom says:

    Building a tub platform for a jacuzzi garden tub and integrating that with a 36″ square shower along the same wall side by side without moving any of the existing plumbing is my biggest challenge Jeff. I’ve torn out all the old tile and gutted the entire space. I wanted to enlarge the shower but realize I cannot with the same size tub. I want to NOT use tile for the shower, but instead have a surround kit possibly and not build the small wall between the tub and shower that was there but have that side of the shower sit on the tub platform.


    1. Sounds like a good project Tom, I might be able to give you some ideas as to what to do…but they mostly relate to tile.

      Are you opposed to tile for a specific reason?

  11. Shelley says:

    My dad passed on a couple of his power tools and now I’m ready to use them! I’ve been looking at my bathrooms for awhile. I did the 1/2 bath dowstairs on my own and I’m so proud. Well now I’m lasering in on the guest bathroom upstairs. I’ve bought the supplies to tile the floor, but now I’m considering switching it up a bit. I don’t have enough money at this time to change out the fiberglass tub and surround. But I would like to put subway tile on the exposed walls (not int the shower but behind the toilet and the opposite wall). I’m not exactly sure what’s the best way to go about this and be able to change the tub surround a few years down the road. Should I put up cement backer board? Shouldn’t there already be one behind the toilet? If I have to put up backer board, do I rip out the existing dry wall or can it go on top? My dad and brother are awesome DIYers w tile experience, but I want to get one more opinion :-). If you need pictures I can provide that too. Thanks!

    1. Thanks Shelley and congrats on your 1/2 bath project.

      I’d recommend waiting until you can do the entire bathroom.

      Here’s why…if you choose to do the tub surround next fall for example you might have to tear out some of the tile you put on the wall.

      If you wait, you can add cement board or Wedi to the shower and the adjacent wall. Then you can tile the entire shower and wall and make it look amazing.

      You may not have cement board behind the toilet, but installing it wouldn’t be too hard…same goes with Wedi.

      What other questions do you have?

  12. Andy Alder says:

    Our kids bathroom has developed a leak under the bathtub, we want to remodel/repair. Our kids are also now all older so we are think of a more mature look.
    We are the original owners but the house is in a cookie cutter or track home subdivision.
    ( to be honest I am scared as to what damage is there from the leak, mold and other crap)

    1. Do be too scared Andy, you can handle it.

      If you have a bad subfloor you can tear it out and replace it.

      The first step is to believe in yourself…I know you can do this project and we’ll be here to help.

      Did you want to replace the entire bathroom of just the tub and surround?

  13. kim says:

    Originally we had only a tub in our master bathroom so we hired a handyman to add a shower. He built a shower surround and put in the plumbing for the shower head and also tiled the walls but left before completing the job. We were unable to contact him since then, and now worry if he had properly waterproofed it. How can we find out if it was waterproofed now that the walls are tiled ? Thank you for any advice…plz help

    1. Thanks Kim for your question, it’s a bit hard to figure out if he waterproofed the walls right.

      Do you remember what materials he used…cement board, RedGard, HardieBacker, KERDI-BOARD?

      If you have an access panel you might be able to see the backside of the wall.

      But if you haven’t noticed any water leaks or drips you’ll likely be okay.

  14. Rick says:

    I will be putting in a shower and tub surround in new construction. The shower pan is the part I have never done and not sure how to proceed. The dimensions are 48X52.


    1. Good question Rick, is this a walk-in shower or a fiberglass shower?

      You might want to look into Schluter’s showerpan kits and Wedi’s kits.

      They aren’t cheap but some of the best options.

  15. kraut says:

    have a mobile home in gound,has old cast iron tub w/chips .can;t find tub that size 54″. also is it possible to use tile on walls in a mobile.

    1. Thanks Ken for your question, you could fix the chips if they’re superficial, that is just on the surface.

      Cast iron is pretty durable and I’d hate to see you replace your tub.

      I’ve never installed tile in a mobile home. You might be better using an acrylic tub or shower surround that can flex a bit.

      We’ve had good experiences with the Clarion brand, very easy to install.

  16. Paul Someson says:

    Would like to know how to install handicap assets items such as grab bars after the tile is installed?

    1. Great question Paul, in terms of the grab bars you can try to locate the studs on the other side of the shower wall.

      Then transfer those measurements, carefully, to the tile.

      Drill through the tile using a carbide tipped drill bit. You can put masking tape or painters tape on the tile so the bit will grab and not slide.

      Then attach the grab bars to the studs.

      I actually have a few other tips in my podcast (episode 231), if you’d like to listen here’s the link

  17. Rick says:

    Wanting to add a shower,toilet and sink in the basement right under a existing bathroom

    1. You should have access to the water lines that run to that bathroom upstairs Rick.

      And you likely can tap into the existing waste stack.

      You could have a plumber do the plumbing if you’re uncomfortable doing it, and then save a ton of money by DIYing the shower, sink and toilet yourself.

      We’d help you with all of it šŸ˜€

  18. Jonathan says:

    Hey Jeff – I honestly haven’t done much research – but I am needing/wanting to replace the vanity in my bathroom. It is pretty old, and the moisture in the restroom has caused it to start peeling and the drawer covers to “peel” off… (I am pretty sure it was a really cheap vanity to begin with)

    What kind of information do I need to even think about starting this project???? Thanks Jeff!

    1. Thanks for asking Jonathan, this is something I’m pretty passionate about because we almost got the shaft on a set of vanities.

      Any vanity worth it’s weight should be made from plywood and not particle board.

      Reason why is particle board will absorb all the moisture in the bathroom and eventually fall apart.

      Drawer fronts that are attached to the face of the drawer construction are always good as is dovetail construction of doors.

      Soft close drawers and doors make for a great vanity, so try to get those.

      Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions, I’d be happy to assist.

  19. Boris says:

    Happy to find someone real and smart to talk to. Have a lot of questions, but first I’d like to see all videos.. I’m sure I can find many answers on my questions..

    1. Ask your questions any time Boris, we’d be happy to help.

  20. Kaki says:

    Help! I want to put tile on plaster walls around the bathtub. Will the tiles stick to plaster and how do I do it

    1. This is a great question Kaki and I answered you question in my podcast (episode 243).

      If your plaster is in good shape you could approach the situation using KERDI by Schluter.

      I’m not sure if Hydro Ban or RedGard can be used over paint, might be a good idea to research that a bit.

      If you don’t mind tearing out the plaster you could use Wedi, KERDI-BOARD, or cement board with a liquid waterproofing membrane.

      Please let us know if you have more questions, we’d be happy to help šŸ˜€

  21. Rosemary says:

    Hi, Jeff: Master bathroom remodel….I would like to remove the fiberglass shower surround and the built out walls on each side to make a walk-in tiled shower. The tub is elsewhere in the room and is staying put. Got a bid for this of $10,000. Not an option!
    The other half of the bathroom has L shaped vanity with electrical boxes for the overhead lighting in the dumbest places, sinks are builder grade and there are more built out walls separating the toilet. Stupid layout but I think moving the toilet is beyond me as the floor is cement (concrete). Need an option to open it up visually if that is possible. Happy to send pics and will watch all videos.
    I am 71 and a woman, BUT I am handy, not afraid of tools and brave. Thank you so much….very glad to find this website.

    1. Thanks Rosemary and I bet you can build a walk-in shower yourself. There are so many great materials these days and we’ll have a video tutorial coming out on how to do this step-by-step.

      We truly love Wedi and KERDI-BOARD, the two companies warranty their products, too. That’s always nice.

      I’ll email you and we can take a look at your layout. Super excited to see what you’re working with šŸ˜€

  22. Jean says:

    I have a 5’x6′ bathroom that has not seen an update in a LONG time. The tub is definitely original since the house was built in 1940 and the tub is cast iron/porcelain with an art deco style. I am going to go for a rustic style and may forego a tub all together and just have a shower due to lack of storage. I am definitely a DIYer and do all of the plumbing, and other projects around the house. I just need to decide on what I want to do with it.

    1. Sounds like you’ll be going with a walk-in shower Jean.

      Curbless is the nice since it cuts down on the danger of stepping over a curb and eliminates unnecessary cleaning.

      Although, going with a curb isn’t bad, too.

      Do you have a system that you like, e.g. Schluter KERDI or Wedi or cement board?

  23. Carlos says:

    Hi Jeff! I am trying to change the pipes that go in the sink. But what I’m seeing are 1-1/2 pipes. When I go to the store I only see 1-1/4 pipes for bath and 1-1/2 for kitchen. How can I change those pipes from 1-1/2 to 1-1/4? Thanks in advance for your help!!!

    1. Hey Carlos, great question, they have reducers that help to do that…you can buy one for the drain pipe to drain connection. Hope this helps but let me know.

  24. Jim says:

    I am installing an American Standard tub, the bathroom floor is level but when we put the tub into place the tub does not sit level. There is a keel on one side of the tub and the acrylic skirt on the other side of the tub. Should I sand the keel down to make the tub level or should I shim the skirt up.

    1. This is a great question Jim, do you have the model number for the tub.

      That way we could take a look at the directions and give you some advice.

  25. Darla says:

    I want to totally gut the whole bathroom. It is outdated and my bathtub is porcelain I believe . Bathtub has to go because it has a hole in it and leaked under the wall into hall and ended up tearing all carpet out of hall etc . Not sure what bathtub would be better to replace with was looking at the Maui because I really want a big bathtub but it won’t fit or a steel bathtub ??? So porcelain or steel ? Is warranty a big deal the Maui only has 2 years and the bootz has a life time limited. What ever that means. Scared to death because I’m afraid I will never be able to put it back together. Hate the box that hangs down to lower ceiling with the lights in them

    1. Thanks Darla for your questions, Bootz makes great tubs. So does American Standard and Kohler.

      You might want to look at acrylic options if installing yourself. They’re easier to handle than porcelain on steel and won’t dent or rust.

      Cast iron…you can never go wrong with it but the tub will weight about 300 pounds. You’ll need a friend to help.

      Putting it back together shouldn’t be that bad, you’ll see in our videos that it’s easier when you break it down into steps.

      Let us know if you have more questions, we’re here to help

  26. Darla says:

    Is it better to use green board , cement board or backer board ?? Totally confused on that. I live in Florida and I have cement floor under the tile not wood . I see all the video putting cement board on the floor ??

    1. You can use Schluter DITRA over cement Darla, that’s a great option because it’ll prevent the cracks in the cement from transferring to the tile and grout.

      Plus, DITRA is light and simple to install. Literally fits into the back seat of a car.

  27. Jim says:

    Started with rotting wood under toilet (on 2nd floor) resulting in replacing ceiling on 1st floor under bathroom. Need to replace flooring in 2nd floor bathroom & replace tub, sink, galvanized pipe (from basement to 2nd floor). The tub is against an outside wall with a window above it – don’t want to lose the light from the window but want to add a shower to the tub. The house was built in the 30’s – cinder block construction with a brick veneer on the outside.

    1. Very common setup Jim.

      Sorry to hear about your toilet…unfortunately that happens to a lot of homeowners.

      Make sure your subfloor is solid and level, then install DITRA over it.

      DITRA is better than cement board because you can waterproof it and it prevents tile/grout from cracking. You’ve probably seen in on HGTV or other TV shows.

      It’ll fit in the back of your car and you’ll have a waterproof floor before tiling it.

      Galvanized pipe…arghhhh!!! Hate it, but you can replace the existing pipe with PEX. Super easy to use and better than copper in my opinion.

      As for the window, if you waterproof your tub/shower surround with Schluter KERDI-BOARD or Wedi we can walk you through the best option for waterproofing the window. No window is 100% waterproof, the only option in that case is glass block.

      You house sounds like a solid place. Your remodel will certainly add a lot of value to the home!!

  28. Michael says:

    Jacuzzi fiberglass tub that has a mysterious, random leak to first floor below. Soft tiles in shower, need to replace backer board, would like to reuse tile. Slow condensation leak from vertical vent pipe, need to repair pipe and patch drywall. Best way to clear slow bathtub drains.

    1. Are you gonna start this project soon Michael?

      1. Michael says:

        In the thick of it šŸ™‚
        Repaired pipe with Fernco couplers, it’s holding up. Removed tile, have to install new insulation (with half wall of Sheetrock in place), board, and tiles. Will probably use cement backer board, going to look at your video. Can I repair a section, or should remove all tiles?

        Interested in your thoughts on fiberglass bathtub leak. Looks like a small crack by drain may be culprit. How to repair? Or scrap and install new?

  29. Dave says:

    Dear Jeff,

    Having just purchased a vacation home with functional but outdated bathrooms, I am keenly interested in remodeling. So I am interested to hear your advice regarding material selection, budget and project planning.

    1. Congrats Dave, I’d be happy to help with materials, budget and the like.

      Probably the biggest decision to make is how to waterproof the bathroom.

      Make sure to choose the right substrates for the tub or shower and floor.

      I’ll send you an email and we can dive into the details šŸ˜€

  30. Jim says:

    Have a 90+ year-old 2-story house with a 1960s-era downstairs (cast iron) bathtub with tile surround. It’s a high-quality tub in great condition but my wife and I are over 65 and we plan to use this bath when we can no longer comfortably climb stairs to the 2nd floor bed and bath rooms. I would like to convert tub area (54″ x 32″) to a shower with a low step-over. A few years ago I redid the floor of this bath with porcelain tile over Schluter Ditra over heat mat over concrete board and added a new sink and toilet. (Probably should have gutted entire room but stopped short due to budget, etc. Have already looked into Kohler pre-fab showers and they do not have any product that fits my dimensions. So I guess my option is to remove tub and build my own shower. Floor under tub is concrete (a basement-level cistern) so I will need to use existing plumbing locations.

    1. Great job Jim redoing the floor with DITRA and the heat mat. You bathroom is likely a very comfy place in the winter.

      Now that we have a heated floor I would recommend everyone get one if it’s in the budget.

      I’ll send you an email and maybe we can get some pictures of your bathroom, then give you suggestions for the shower.

  31. Claudette says:

    I just purchased how home that was built in 1957. The bathroom is miniature. When I come out of the tub I either hit my knees on the vanity or the toilet. The current dimensions are 6 feet wide by 5’10”. Not only do I need to make this bathroom much bigger but I am pretty sure I need to gut the present space as it looks like it is falling apart. The ceiling is cracked the whole bathroom is painted blue and a large section is tiled with mosaic tiles and also painted blue. There is a bedroom next to it which I would like to use a section of to create a bigger bathroom that would include both a bathtub and a freestanding shower, a large vanity and include a space for my washer and dryer. The dimensions that I would like to end up with for the new bathroom are 15 1/4 feet long and at least 6 feet wide as that is the present width of the bathroom. I am not against making it wider. What kind of advice can you give me in terms of DIY.

  32. Frann says:

    Remove of bathtub .home was built in 1982

    1. If cast iron Frann you can use a sledge hammer and smash it into smaller pieces, really the only way to go.

      But if you have a fiberglass tub it’s much easier. Shut the water off to the bathroom, remove the spout, mixing valve handle, and shower head. Then remove the surround, either with a sawzall if fiberglass, or with a hammer if tile.

      Then you can remove the fiberglass tub.

  33. Maureen says:


    I am replacing an old fiberglass tub and surround with a shower. I’ll be tiling the walls. But, I have to move the drain from the left of the floor, to the center, for the tub floor. How hard will this be?



    1. Not too hard Maureen but if you feel totally uncomfortable you can hire a plumber. You’ll have to coordinate with that person on the location of the drain and the shower pan installation. Definitely want to get that right…that is, install the pan then the walls.

      Which waterproofing panel are you using for the walls? Pan?

  34. Darren Tarallo says:

    I want to update the bathroom it’s original from the 70’s, the tub is yellow and the floor tiles are dated. Can I paint the tub or do I change it? I have done some tile work in the past and I can swap out the toilet and vanity. Looking for suggestions of what to do with the tub.
    Thank you

    1. Good question Darren, I’d replace it.

      Paint will eventually get ruined and if you tile the tub surround the last thing you want is to replace the tub a few years down the road.

      Cast iron and acrylic tubs are good, make sure to research the reviews on the brand and type you buy. American Standard and Kohler make solid tubs.

  35. Tim says:

    i am installing a new fiberglass tub and shower surround and am not sure on the following:-
    1. i have stripped down to bear studs and will be installing some sound proof insulation in the wall between the shower and next door bedroom – do i need to put up a vapor barrier?
    2. the tub and surround are about 1″ smaller than the dimensions between the studs. should i put up 1/2″ drywall all round or just some 1/2″ battens where i need to screw the tub/surround too?
    3. lastly, i cannot get the tub spout off (seems to be welded to the pipe connection!!). would cutting it off and using ‘shark bite’ fitting be ok – i am just worried about the water pressure pushing them off or leaking?

    thanks for any advise you have.

  36. Trixie Briggs says:

    Have tile in the bathtub that was installed in 1970. It is a great neutral color and I like it, but I can’t get the grout clean. It is as if there is mold in it. I have tried every cleaner; professional, purchased and homemade available and nothing is working. I’m thinking I may need to re-grout it but I don’t know where to start. Please Help!!!

    1. Hey Trixie, sorry to hear about your grout. I hate to say it buy sometimes it’s not the grout but what’s happening behind the tile that causes discolored. Not sure what the waterproofing was in the 1970s but it might be shot. You can re-grout but my concern is the new grout will discolor as well. You can use an oscillating multi tool to remove the grout (you need a grout attachment) and then will need to use a new stain resistant grout. Steve and I like Ardex and Bostik grouts…they aren’t cheap but better than the ones you’ll find in Home Depot.

  37. Katie says:

    Hi! We are doing a bath redo after a shower leak created mold. We have taken it down to the studs. We are planning on using kerdi board for the tub surround to the ceiling. What should we use the rest of the walls/ceiling? Anything different behind the toilet and sink? We are only tiling the shower surround and doing a board and batten surround 3/4 up on all of the other walls.

    1. Great questions Katie.

      Sorry to hear about your mold issue, no fun.

      You can use purple board (drywall) for the rest of the bathroom. You might also want to check out AirRenew drywall because it absorbs volatile organic compounds. Really cool stuff and not much more expensive than purple board, seriously either one is about $10-$14 per 4×8 foot sheet.

      Nothing different is needed behind the toilet or sink, unless you’re tiling. But even then that’s your personal choice. If you tile you can use cement board without waterproofing it or you can simple tile over the purple board.

  38. Don says:

    Best way to restore a tub shower surround back to white it’s yellowed. And remove silicone from the tub.

    1. Not sure you’ll be able to turn it from yellow to white Don, never done that before. Removing silicone caulk…personally like using a razor scraper, it can wedge between the caulk and tub.

  39. Tim says:

    Hi Jeff,
    I”m getting ready to remodel my bathroom.It has a fiberglass stall shower that I’m keeping, a toilet I’m keeping, and a garden tub that I am replacing with a jacuzzi. The floor is currently linoleum and I’m going to pull up linoleum and replace with tile. The garden tub and the jacuzzi are pretty much the same size. I saw your video on DITRA and that sounds like good stuff! Is it available at Lowes and most home improvement stores? Your videos are very helpful and I certainly appreciate them,Thanks!

    1. Thanks Tim for your kind words, yes you can find DITRA at Home Depot and tile stores. It’s not cheap but way easier to install than cement board. And you can totally waterproof the floor with it. Let me know if you have any questions šŸ˜€

  40. Cindy Midkiff says:

    We are getting ready to remodel bathroom. I want to cut out the old tile area around tub/shower combination and put up new tile. What is a good product to use behind the tile? My husband has laid floor tile in our other bathrooms but is intimidated by laying wall tile. Any helpful hints. We are doing the whole bathroom but I want to start in that area. Thank you.

  41. Ms Eli says:

    Our biggest concern is money and time our group received a donated home in bad shape not as bad as others however a lot of small items have to be replaced and or repaired the house was a foreclosure prior owners as you have experienced left with no love left for the house I would love to tile the bathroom but with lack of funds and volunteers it is really hard to accomplish it we are having to use a shower surround in order to get it completed and rented to a family in need with a pet however I do know we will be re-doing this bathroom again.

    Thank you

  42. Kindria says:

    I purchased a 1972 end-unit 3 bedroom, 2 1/2 bath room Townhouse that’s in need of some repairs and updating.

    My master bedroom is a nice size, but, the master bathroom sink and mirror are in my bedroom; right outside the bathroom. The bathroom is small with the toilet and shower being parallel to each other.

    The shower tile floor and wall is severely damaged and we suspect caused some mold in the bathroom ceiling under it on the first floor. So we stopped using it and started using the other full bath which is dated but in good working condition.

    I want to repair and remodel my master bedroom since we no longer use it. I would like to:
    ???? remove the tile on the shower floor and most of it on the wall; would love to keep the top row as an original piece. I would also like to add in a shower nook for storage and small corner seat if possible size abd budget wise.

    ???? remove / cover the stick on floor tile around the toilet. Also take up the carpet in front of the sink and mirror and take the new floor tile around the toilet and out to in front of sink and mirror.

    ???? replace sink with something modern. Storage for personal products is a must.

    I have a lot of problems with the area right now. I will have to do most of the labor myself with my husband. We have to find out if there is a leak and have repaired, repair mold. Also the big problem is across from the bathroom door to the toilet / shower is a nice window. There are 3 on that wall, but this window’s frame is across from the bathroom. How do I close this area off without putting up an expensive wall ( little funds for a contractor), remove the carpet but leave the nice window?

    Do you think you you help me through this remodel / repair?

  43. Cathy says:

    Love your videos! We put off a project for our master bathroom because we aren’t sure how to fix the problem.

    The house must have settled because the area at the bottom of the shower door is a half inch wider than the top. We want to replace it now and didn’t know how to buy the bi-fold shower door because they say they adjust to 3/4 of an inch and we can’t find a size that would cover top and bottom. Would it be wise to use a shim? We appreciate any assistance so we can move onto the more fun things. Thanks!

  44. Chris says:

    Excited to get into this series — I have an almost demo’ed bathroom and I am curious to find out if I have made any of the common mistakes. With a baby coming in June I’m under the gun to get this project done. I am interested in doing tile and have a wood subfloor. I ripped out the old laminate floor and a particle board underlayment that was disintegrating around areas like the toilet. I am nervous about a couple things — 1) the existing drywayll doesn’t go all the way down to the now exposed wood floor so there is a 3/4″ gap, in addition to the bottom of the drywall being a little crumbly in spots at this gap, 2) I think my wood subfloor is in good shape, but it’s a little beat up around where the toilet was ripped out and I’m not sure if it is butted up too tight between panels (like referenced in the kerdi shluter membrane video.) Well, I guess I will get watching and find out my next steps!

  45. Margo says:

    I have an enclosed shower that is tiled about 5-6 feet high with sheetrock the rest of the way up to the ceiling on the inside. There is also sheet rock on the outside of this enclosed shower. The two foot of sheet rock inside the shower lasts about 9-10 years and then starts to break down with peeling, cracking, etc where the sheetrock meets the tile. The shower is not ventilated nor is this small master bathroom ventilated. I am getting ready to redo that area as well as paint the rest of that room and put in a new handicap toilet and new lavatory. I purchased a liquid rubber waterproof sealant to paint this sheetrock area inside the shower in hopes that it will last longer/look better. Do you have any other suggestions on how to handle this trouble spot?

  46. Joshua Mitch says:

    Hi Jeff! Thanks for the kind offer. I do indeed have many questions as to how to go about remodeling the bathroom. I’ve been reading up on the process – expect to begin some time this spring – but a lot of the info I’ve read about is a bit confusing and contradictory to me. For example, I’ve read that starting from a gutted bathroom the outside wall stud cavities should be well insulated and use a good plastic as a vapor barrier. Then a substrate like kerdi-board or cement board would be applied and caulked in the corners with a silicone caulk in the corners, and a waterproofing of something like RedGuard should be applied before tiling the walls. But wouldn’t that present 2 vapor barriers on the outside walls? That seems like a wrong thing to do from my experience. What do you think?


    1. You’re right about the KERDI Josh.

      If you use KERDI then no plastic vapor barrier is needed and I’d use Roxul or Johns Manville in the wall cavities.

      What I like best about KERDI and Wedi is the ease of use and no need for extra waterproofing, unlike with cement board.

      I’ll send you a separate email and we can talk about your project a bit more šŸ™‚

  47. Belinda says:

    I am in need of making a full shower in one of my bathrooms. I have a special need child and it is hard getting him in the bathtub to shower. So this will mean, me taking out the bathtub. Do you really think a single parent like me can tackle this type of project?

    1. That’s a great question Belinda and I’d have to see your setup. I’ll send you a separate email and we can discuss all your options šŸ˜‰

  48. Gesele Sabathia says:

    How to prevent mildew from returning around the bathroom tub. I’ve replaced the caulking several times but it always returns. I’ve even replaced the mildew caulking with pre-mixed grout and treated it against stains but once again the mildew returned. The room only holds the tub and there’s no ventilation.
    Thanks, Gesele

  49. liz says:

    I’m considering starting getting rid of a very very old and small bathroom for a new one but I do not have enough funds to do so.

  50. Angelo Montoya says:

    I have a shower stall completely stripped . I need to decide what type of shower base or pan to start with and what material to use for the walls .

  51. Monica says:


    I decided it is time to update at least part of my bath that looks like the 70s, with a light yellow tub, and vanities at least 8 in lower than normal. I am on a budget so I will not replace the bathtub itself, but I want to tile the bathtub surround. Now it has an ugly slightly cracked plastic surround that is not very well glued to the wall. I hope not to demolish the drywall behind the plastic. How can I wayerproof the easiest the walls before I start tiling?

    The second question probably need a photo attachment ….. I am not able to take out the shower hot / cold water diverter ( I think is called) that is on a big white round escouchon with no brand name on it. To turn the water on you pull a knob and turning left or right you get hot or cold water. I could not see anything I can pry out to find the screw to take the knob off, nothing. Do you have any ideas?

    Thanks so much for any pointers,

  52. rhonda says:

    I want to replace the old tub with a walk-in shower with a glass enclosure instead of a curtain.

  53. Matt says:

    We have a guest bathroom I would like to modernize. Has a fiberglass tub shower unit I want replace with tile shower and glass door + replace the original contractor grade sink, vanity and toliet.

    Just not sure how to get started and if I am getting in over my head. Do I rip out the shower down to studs, how can I save the existing plumbing plumbing and not have the water in the house.. Lots of questions.

  54. Averna says:

    Removing light fixtures and toilet so that wallpaper can be removed and then wall can be painted.

    1. Wallpaper can be such a pain, I’d recommend getting a steamer Averna to help remove it.

      Steamers make the process fast and straight forward, more so than the chemical removers šŸ™‚

  55. Amanda Mendez says:

    Change pipes from upstairs bathroom and down stairs house built in 1957 copper pipes and very low water pressure upstairs

    1. You might want to think about using PEX Amanda, it’s easy to use, no soldering, and you can run the PEX tubing easily up walls.

  56. Mian says:

    My grout is really bad
    Need to repair
    I am new home owner, no idea what to do

  57. C&M Warwin says:

    We will install a new shower. We’ve installed normal showers before — but is there any special trick or pitfall to installing hydro therapy shower assembly?

  58. I have a 1979 Ridgecrest Mobile Home with a 54″ X 27″ Porcelain Enamel Tub I just Bought from Home Depot, it is a Boontz Tub. I have everything tore down to the Ugly Sub-Floor, I can Do this Myself, I am a 71 Year Old Disabled Vet, I have already bought the Backerboard & New Surround, My Main inquiry is How to clean up the Whole Mess?. They have 1 X 4″s & 1 X 2″s as the main Framing & a old Lineoleum (partially left) & was wondering the best ideas to use larger lumber & what do use besides Lineoleum on the Floors. I won’t receive the Bathtub for about a week, today is the 3rd of March, so I have until the 10th to be ready to install. I have all the Dimensions for the Tub & Plumbing, & Ready to start tomorrow!! Any suggestions would be greatly Appreciated. Thanks & God Bless America!!

  59. Hank says:

    I’m slowly remodeling our 1974-vintage master bathroom. One of the first things is to replace the hot and cold water stems in the shower. When I took out the old stems, I see that the seats are old and worn and look corroded. So, I bought a “seat tool” to remove the old seats … but the result was that the tool only rounded out the centers of the seats, without removing them … and now I seem to have stuck rounded out seats. What can be recommended to remove them?

    1. Thanks Bob for your great question. If you don’t mind, could you send pictures to me at [email protected].

      That way I can take a look at your situation and hopefully help out.

  60. Tiffany says:

    Hi Jeff, I WAS having bath fitter come in to redo my tub, but that didn’t work out bc they couldn’t give me what I wanted. So I’m doing most of it myself. My biggest question is this: The tub has nailing flanges attached at side, front and back. Once attached, and once I drop the cement board down over that….. how do I finish the wall edge where it meets the tub (using a half-wall system, and only using 16″ above the tub; I’ll be using 4×4 tiles w/1×1 tiles between each row of 4×4) – do I use bullnose and call it a day?

    THANK you!

    1. You can use bullnose but you might want to check out Schluter metal profiles.

      They’re way cheaper and easy to install, you simply adhere your tile to the wall using thin-set then slide the profile behind it…done.

      Make sure the tile is the same depth as the profile. They come in a variety of styles and finishes, really think you’d like them.

      You might want to drop the cement board down to the tub flange but not over it. That way the cement board won’t be pitched and create a wonky looking corner when you tile.

      Hope that makes sense.

      Then the question is how do you waterproof that gap between the cement board and tub deck.

      You can add Schluter KERDI-FIX to the gap, apply unmodified thin-set to the cement board, then adhere Schluter KERDI-BAND over the KERDI-FIX and thin-set.
      Use one continual KERDI-BAND and embed it using a 6 inch drywall knife.

      This technique will totally waterproof the tub to cement board transition šŸ™‚

  61. Linda says:

    We want to replace a regular tub with a Whirlpool Tub.
    What will we have to do before we put it in?

    1. Great question Linda.

      Make sure your subfloor is solid and can support the weight of the tub.

      Read the directions for the tub ahead of time and see what kind of ledger boards (they go on the stud framing) is required.

      Not a bad idea to figure out the plumbing configuration ahead of time as well šŸ™‚

  62. mia says:

    Hi Jeff, I am in desperate need of your help, my daughter whose a single mother and has worked her …. off trying to make a good life for her and my granddaughter is wanting to do some upgrading to her bathroom, the only have the one, she purchased her home about 8 years ago and has realized that the previous owners had had the tub reglazed, now starting to show and had painted the tiles around the tub and shower which is peeling off. Her daughter will be graduating high school and it giving her a grad party for all the hard work she has done. As she is trying to do this all on a small budget, I am retired with just ss I try to help wherever I can but cannot redo this bathroom for her. we will be repainting the bathroom and refinishing the sink cabinet, I’m hoping to replace the top for her and it is the old molded shell in the molded plastic time. the floor is also tile squares. I would like to lift her spirits up by helping with a solution. Hope you can help me out with ideas and know how on doing this so she will be a proud Momma when guest come to her home. Thanks

    1. mia says:

      Sorry I meant to say her flooring is the linolium stick squares, i wish they where tile square.

  63. jacky says:

    Hi just signed up for your advice. I am remodeling my bathroom. I do need help.

  64. Vanita says:

    Well, where do I begin? Inherited mother-in-law’s home and EVERYTHING is outdated nothing was ever updated.
    Bathroom –small tub – would have imagined it for kids only if didn’t know better. Want to convert tub/shower to shower only and somehow put more “room” in a very small bath. What facts / pics do you need from me to help me?

  65. R T Foste says:

    I have a shower pan that is rusted out and leaking into the garage. Need to replace the shower pan in the tiled shower built in 1967.

    Would like a plastic shower pan or whole plastic shower if it will go through the door of the bathroom.

  66. R T Foste says:

    I have a shower pan that is rusted out and leaking into the garage. Need to replace the shower pan in the tiled shower built in 1967.

    Would like a plastic shower pan or whole plastic shower if it will go through the door of the bathroom.

  67. Nikki says:

    Making plans to remodel master bathroom of a home we bought 2 years ago. Looks like it was remodeled in the 70’s and I want to get a longer jetted tub than what is currently there (the world’s shortest tub). The problem is that if I get a longer tub, I will have to reconfigure the way everything is set up and move the drain lines around. The width of the bathroom is just wide enough to fit the length of the old tub. Also… there is a support pole (like the ones you see in the basement that twist to extend) in the garage (that is underneath this bathroom) that appears to be supporting that tub (which is on the second floor). Do I need to move this support pole? What happens if the new tub is heavier than the old tub… and what if I can’t move the support pole because there are walls in the way? Do I need to hire a structural engineer to make a decision on this? I also hope I can get a longer tub up the stairs that have an enclosed landing about half way up… Maybe I want a professional opinion? Please let me know your thoughts!

  68. Ivona says:

    2contractors told me get a 60*32 tub/shower combo,the one that in the end is working on it said it should be 60*34 or so…he adjusted the plumbing and now has to fill the side walls.Is that the right way to do it?what’s the best way to fill the walls?

  69. Hi,
    With my back health, I am struggling with most of it, but the 2 main things is removing an outdated fiberglass bathtub/shower and putting in a better tub. Then I would like to see a heated tile floor in a perfect world.Thanks for all the time and help you give everyone!
    John Kreimier

  70. Ivona says:

    I have huge doubts about the way my contractor put my tub and walls.When push on the focet wall goes in so is the mail wall.They are not leveled properly and the gap that he filled to make up the difference in size of the tub looks terrible.Help,not sure if I should continue or try to hire another one!!!

  71. Bobbi says:

    Hi there, Can you tell me what I need to do, I want to replace my large bathtub with a shower. Someone told me that I need to reinforce the walls around it. I would like to put in a prefab, walk in shower, but there is a large window there, so it probably needs tile. Do I need to reinforce the walls so it can hold tiles? What do I need to do? Are you still answering questions? I hope so. Thank you! šŸ™‚

  72. William Rems says:

    I’m entering beginning stages of a bathroom remodel. With that, I need to shift the tub and toilet from their current location over ~12″ to relax the space constraints around the toilet. I’ll lose some closet space to do so, but such is life. What considerations do I need to account for when this project starts to take shape? I haven’t opened up anything yet so I’m not entirely sure what I’ll run into. Any pitfalls I need to be aware of before tearing out and sliding them over?

    1. Good questions, consider removing some of the subfloor to inspect the joists. Some times the stability of the joists are compromised by existing pipes. If the joists need to be repaired you will want to do that before anything else. Always feel free to send me pictures.

      After that, you’ll want to consider how the new plumbing will be run through the walls or joists. Very important to have a good plan in place before anything else. Consider what size rough-in you need for the toilet and factor that into the toilet installation. Usually a 10 in or 12 in rough-in are typical. Keep me posted šŸ™‚

  73. Suzanne says:

    Hi! I grew up in Pittsburgh! I have been living in Rhode Island for the past 20 years; but, you can take a ‘Pittsburgher’ out of Pittsburgh, but you can never take Pittsburgh out of a ‘Pittsburgher’!

    I live in a typical raised ranch. The top floor has a main bathroom and a master bath.

    The main bathroom is the average 8’10” x 8′. Standing at the door into the bathroom, looking straight ahead, is a large window. Perpendicular to the window on the left wall is a shower/tub fiberglass combo followed by an open closet with shelves that abuts the front of the tub.
    Perpendicular to the window on the right wall is the toilet, a half wall, a one sink vanity (with small surface on each side) followed by a linen closet, which is behind the entry door when opened, (the vanity and closet are equal depth). The floor is linoleum.

    The master bath is smaller. Standing at the door into the bathroom is the vanity. To the right of the vanity is the toilet. Perpendicular to the toilet is a large window, (mirror image of vanity, toilet and window arrangement in main bath). Perpendicular to the vanity is a shower (which is behind the entry door when opened). The wall opposite the toilet is a blank. There is no closet and the floor is also linoleum.

    Both bathrooms need total renovations. We are having difficulty imagining how to expand the main bath, slightly. We want a separate shower and tub. I had read having a double vanity adds value, so I was considering pedestal sinks adjoined by a cabinet in the middle. I would tear everything out and start with a completely empty room. I don’t know how to arrange the room, given the limited space.
    We would update the master bath, but, my husband would like to extend the shower down the wall. There used to be a hall closet between the bathrooms but we closed it off and he wants to use that space to extend the shower.

    I have researched images and layouts of bathrooms, but have not found anything that would seem to work. Any ideas on the layouts? The master bath cannot be extended into the bedroom because there are closets on both sides.

    What should be my priority? Do you have pictures of bathrooms with similar dimensions that have been renovated? I would love to start, but not without a completed plan. I also was considering doing both bathrooms at the same time, in stages. One last note, my resources ($) are limited, but I do want to add value to my home.

    I would appreciate your suggestions and ideas. Thank you for your time.

  74. Tom says:

    My wife and I bought our 1959 model home with one small 5 by 10 foot bathroom.

    1. Our bathtub needs to be repainted or replaced. We are tending toward replacement but regret that we will end up with a fiberglass tub instead of the badly damaged finish on the current steel one.
    2. We are excited by your recommendation of Wendi board or Maki board. Our shower/bathtub has a 36 inch by 36 inch window in the 5 foot wall and its ledge is flat, which collects a puddle after the shower. So tile for sure. We have galvanized pipes and we will need to modernize the plumbing and fixtures using copper behind the shower wall. .
    3. We have to remove the old linoleum and are interested in a synthetic durable, attractive material (either tile or linoleum) We will need to use some leveling compound to level the floor in at least one corner slightly.
    4. New vanity and plumbing.
    5. We are looking for a great mirror cabinet combination for over the sink. My wife is very concerned that the mirror’s edge is vulnerable to damage because of constant use.

    We really appreciate your presentation of first class materials and how they are used.

    1. Thanks a million Tom for your comment.

      I love homes from the 1950s, reminds me of my grandparent’s home that was custom built and solid as a rock.

      Wedi and Schluter KERDI-BOARD are definitely the way to go in a tiled shower. Don’t get me wrong, cement board is good but tedious and requires a waterproof coating.

      Foam boards like Wedi and KERDI are much easier to use and already waterproof on the surface, which saves time. They are more expensive but worth it.

      You might want to consider a hybrid system of copper and PEX to replace your galvanized pipes. PEX, if allowed by plumbing code in your area, is easy to use.

      If you go with tile on the floor I’d recommend DITRA under it. It’ll waterproof the subfloor and help prevent cracked tiles/grout over time šŸ˜‰

      Understand your wife’s concern about the mirror and it looking bad over time. I see this all the time in restaurants and hotels where the mirrors get abused with water.

      I’m worried about the same thing!!

      Let me know if you have any additional questions, I’d be happy to help.

  75. Olivier says:

    Hi Jeff,
    I’m trying to figure out a new layout to move the laundry in the hallway insted of the back of the bathroom without creating an hallway effect in my bathroom.

    1. Hi Olivier, what all would you like to put in the bathroom. For example, do you want a walk-in shower or tub. Perhaps a double vanity? We can try to figure it out.

  76. James J says:

    Hi Jeff,
    I have a home that I want to re-do both bathrooms. Much like the one you mentioned this house was built back in the late 50’s, early 60’s. In the master bath there is a 3’by 3′ shower, next to it a door that leads to the hallway and then on the other side of the door is a built out closet. Next to that is a medium length counter with a long mirror that goes from th closet wall to the window about 6 feet. The toilet sets next to the shower and then there is a door beside that leading to the Master bedroom. The bathroom and shower is done in this horrible lime green tiles, and the floor is done in these very tiny green tiles.
    My goal is to gut everthing, seal the door to the hallway making in a wall, knock out the shower and closet, put in a jacuzzi tube, new counter, and GET RID OF THE HORRIBLE TILE, and put up some new tile. I would like to do most of the work myself but know I will probably need a plumber at some point….suggestions?

  77. Geneva Johnson says:

    Without knowing it we bought the home my great grandfather built and I’m 64 so that tells you how old this house is. It has a cast iron tub and outside the bathroom is a very narrow hallway so no way to turn to get it out. What can I do??

  78. Michele Simpson says:

    My bathroom floor came up near the tub and I can’t find the same stick on tile

  79. chris gilkey says:

    My only delema right now is that I have 3/4″ hard wood throughout my house but in the bathroom is a cheap wood laminate. I know (from previous floor demo in the same house) its either 3/4″ plywood or particle board. My main subfloor is a 2×5″ TnG running across 4′ on center 6×8″ beams. I have a crawlspace.

    So what I am trying to say is what should i do to try and get the tile that I want to put in be flush with the hardwood?

  80. Bizhan Herbert says:

    I bought my family home 14 years ago. It was built in 2002. Now I want to rent the basement, which has back door entrance, bed room, bathroom, but it doesn’t have a kitchen. I have a big walk in closet which I can turn it to a kitchen. First of all I need to build a sink for the kitchen. I am retired and want to do it myself, but Iā€™m not sure how and where to start it properly to avoid this from wrong doing. Any advise would be appreciated.

  81. Shimree says:

    I would like to learn how to correctly redo all plumbing lines coming into my gutted out bathroom from the direct water line to water tank and then into the shower head, toilet, and/ or sink faucet are properly supposed be done. Also lines going out and the vent pipe positioning for these lines. Thank you thus far for your help with utube videos i have previously needed. They were extremely useful and have saved me so much time.

  82. blase says:

    bathroom sink. shutoffs to the sink (both hot and cold) will not turn. there is also very little room from the shutoff valves to the wall. Problem two the bath tub had been refinished. parts of finish have chipped or pealed away. Should the tub be replaced. Is it hard to refinish tub again? Very limited budget. as I’m retired. thanks

  83. GREG ROUSSEAU says:

    Bathroom floor is starting to sag. I don’t see any where water is dripping from the pipes. Is there anyway to support the sagging floor from the crawl space bellow it? How do I find out what is causing this issue?
    In the shower above the shower head, the steam has eaten away at the ceiling st the lattis from the floor above is starting to show. How to I repair and fix that?

  84. Dave says:

    I want to remodel the bathroom. It has a surround and 4 in tiles up 4 feet on the walls and 1in tile on floor. I want to replace tub and retile the walls and floor. Need help in finding a vanity. It is 72″ long with one sink and counter at the left with drawers underneath. Please let me know how you can help. Dave

  85. hilary says:

    hi,my daughters small two up two down terraced house has a bathroom extension that was possibly built in the 1970s prefab type materials used,it is exremely cold inwinter and the tiles are falling off exposing older tiles from tennants before.
    Having removed the tiles the underlying materials are soggy wood ,foam type polys with movement when pressure is applyed.
    The outside of the makeshift wall has been pebble dashed showing minute holes and gapsat the sides were i suspect the rain has been coming in well before she moved in .Any advice would be of value as it is urgent .thank you .Hilary

  86. Chris says:

    We are renovating an 80’s bathroom with tan 4″tile on the tub surround that has a bullnose that wraps around the edge of the cement board. Our new tile and bullnose is flat. Do I have to tear out the existing cement board and rebuild the wall for tile, or is there a workaround?
    Also, the plumbing for the old vanity doesn’t match where it’s needed for the new one. How difficult is it to move the hot and cold supplies and sink drain a foot to one side? Pro job? Thanks!

  87. Renee says:

    I had a contractor taking up the ceramic tile in my bathrooms. The tile was installed by the Cindy’s builder. Unfortunately, the job is only half done and the contractor won’t be finishing it because he decided to steal some jewelry from me. Enter the police etc. Now I’m stuck with two bathroom floors partially removed and need to finish the job myself. I’ve started breaking up the tile with a hammer (while visualizing the thief’s face). Below the concrete floor is a smooth layer of concrete poured by the builder.

    My husband is disabled and uses a wheelchair. The ceramic tile that looks like wood has some texture, but I’m not sure it would work to our advantage. What kind of flooring do you recommend?

    Also had to remove the door to the master bath so the wheelchair would fit through. We need to widen that doorway and need any door to open into the bedroom. I’m not into barn doors either and am afraid a pocket door would create all kinds of problems. Other than hanging up a sheet, what do you suggest?

    1. Renee says:

      Make that CONDO’S, not Cindy’s. I hate auto correct!

  88. Carmen says:

    I want to add a shower to an existing tub this is a mobile home. What do I need to do to waterproof the walls? They are covered in wall paper.

  89. hyman says:

    going to relocate bathroom fan from above the tub ceiling to the center of the room.
    after removing the fan, to patch the ceiling do I need any special type of board as this is over the tub and shower.

  90. Dave says:

    Hey Jeff,
    I have a vacant apt that I have to totally gut the bathroom. I took out the sheet rock, vanity, bathtub. I can see that the subfloor is water damaged and so are some of the framing wood surrounding the tub location. How to I repair or replace the subfloor and the framing wood in the tub area? Also, what tools would I need to effectively complete this? I’d appreciate your assistance with this. Thanx

    1. Great questions Dave. We just did a bathtub remodel video and show how to do this. Here’s the link

      You’ll need several tools but there’s a supply list in the tutorial.

      If you need more help please don’t hesitate to email me

  91. Ivan says:

    I have just one bathroom and need to update it badly. So, as you can imagine, I need to do this work in as short time as possible! [email protected]@!
    So, my bathroom is small, and it`s against the firewall of a duplex home next to me. (I live in a double home/duplex.) The tub is a surround type tub with a cast iron tub. I`d like to just have a tiled shower, (no tub) and tile the rest of the bathroom as well. Since the bathroom is small, should I tile the whole bathroom walls, including ceiling or just like half up the walls and not the ceiling??? Should I use green sheet-rock, or masonry sheets on walls and ceiling? Or just on shower area? It is small again, so it does develop steam, therefore would like to ensure nothing gets moldy as time passes. Anywhoot, like to get your thoughts! Thx Jeff

    1. If you want a walk in shower I’d recommend Wedi or Schluter KERDI-BOARD Ivan. Wedi makes a curbless pan. It’s not cheap but works great and they offer a warranty. Schluter has, for now, a curbed system and they also warranty it. For the walls…you could use cement board or Wedi or KERDI-BOARD for the tiled part and Purple Board above it to save money. But we can talk more about that via email.

  92. Vinai Cyriac says:

    I a home owner who would like to:
    1. Remove a funny shaped bathtub.
    2. Put in a shower instead…that means creating a shower stall
    3. Retiling the entire bathroom floor.
    4. Retile the shower stall.
    Seeking advice on how to carry through this project step by in the correct sequence and the materials and tools required to do the job. Would also like to cost out the job before starting.
    Thx. Vinai

    1. We can help you with that Vinai.

      Lots of tutorials coming your way. But you also have access to Bathroom Repair Tutor. All those videos will help you immensely, not to mention the Bathroom Planner.

  93. Vinai Cyriac says:

    I am also based in Canada. Can I send you photographs of the bath room so that you get an idea of what I am attempting. How do I send photographs to you?
    Thanks for getting in touch.

    1. Hi Vinai, you bet. Just send them to [email protected] or since you’re part of Bathroom Repair Tutor you can post them on the private Facebook Group. Here’s that link

  94. Jeff says:

    My MIL has a 1960s home and the floor is soft and spongee. I understand that the previous owner cut some floor joist to install new AC duct work without properly supporting the cuts.
    I am in planning stage and prep siting for the tear out of the carpeted floor and substructure so I can access the damage.
    I will then go underneath and upgrade cut joist to make the structure sound.
    My major concern is how to comply with building codes so when the home sells it will pass inspection.

    1. Good job identifying the bad joists. Definitely consult your local codes to ensure you fix them properly. Not only is it good for the next owner but for you, too. Always good to stay safe. What are your plans for the bathroom?

  95. I’m redoing our 1961 blue bathroom…now I want to keep the tub because it is cast iron and great shape I’m curious what is the best way to waterproof the surround. Red stuff or kerdi. I already have the waterproof tile backer board installed…before I learned of kerdi board.

    1. I’d say at this point you can opt for RedGard Stacy. It’s pretty easy to apply and requires 2-3 applications. Just read the directions and you should be fine. It’s a bit smelly but good stuff. Feel free to email me with any additional questions. I’d be happy to help with the details šŸ˜‰

  96. Robert Piper says:

    Thanks for this awesome support.
    I have a shower with large rotted out holes in two bottom corners. I have removed the tile but there were these 2 corners about 5 inches high and a foot long. Do I have to replace the whole board to fix these holes? Also, the board on the wall is very rough were the old tile adhesive is left on the board. Can I just add a water proofing coat to smooth the rough surface instead of replacing the board?

    1. Hey Robert, I’d have to see the situation to assess it. You can send some pictures to me at [email protected]. But I’d be concerned that the rot is a bigger problem and therefore would advise taking a look at the entire shower. The last thing you want is leave a moldy situation intact.

  97. Matt Watkins says:

    I have a crumby old basement full bath that has sat partially demolished for many years. When pulled down the tub surround I found water and termite damage (I’ve seen not sign of termites since I exposed the wall.. We’ve had a few sewer back ups over the years and this BR is the lowest point in the house and floods first, so the old vinyl floor is shot. It suffers from a lack light, the walls a paneling and not green board. I’ve never been able to seat copper pipe but I’m handy with electric, drywall, and I’m pretty sure I can tile the wall and the new vinyl overlap floors seem easy enough. You spoke about budget and tim lines, and that’s something I’d like to look into b/c I’m not sure I want to get half way through I not have the money to finish.

    1. Understandable Matt. Yah, you’d want to get the sewer checked out and make sure the drains are pitched properly. We have several rentals here in Pittsburgh and one had the exact same issue…backed up sewers. Turns out the sewer drains were pitched back toward the basement. We had to tear out all the lines and put in new pipes. Knock on wood…no issues since then. I’d recommend checking out Schluter’s Shower System for your basement.

  98. Samuel McIntosh says:

    Hi, I am doing two bathrooms in a 2bed/2bath apartment. Each is on an exterior wall. Both are small and were about 30 years since last redo. Cast Iron tubs in good shape but need cleaning and reglazing for best presentation. one has a small chip near drain. I intend to insulate and tile tub surround and room floor. I have ripped out old plaster and tile down to studs. I’m pretty handy but not up to date on newest techniques or technologies. Your comments and guidance are sought and welcomed.

    1. Thanks Samuel and I’d be happy to help. There are a lot of different materials that make a bathroom makeover way easier. For example, KERDI-BOARD or Wedi panels to waterproof the shower surround. And pre-mixed grout like Mapei’s FlexColor CQ or QuartzLock by Bostik. You might want to consider replacing the tubs just because they might possibly have rusting issues underneath…but check and see before you demo them. Feel free to post your questions or email me directly [email protected]

  99. R Floyd says:

    Hi Jeff,
    In the process of remodeling a very tiny half bath. The sink and toilet are very old. The tile on floor and baseboard is outdated. There is no shower (unfortunately). My husband had a stroke during a massive flood we had a year ago, so I am pretty much at this with his limited assistance. Where and how do we get started?

    Thank you kindly,

    1. Sorry to hear about your husband Robiesenia, hope he’s doing better. If you run into any questions please feel free to send me an email. The biggest thing to remember is to check your closet flange under the toilet. Here are two tutorials that will help you with the toilet.

      The first is how to repair a toilet flange

      You might be able to just tear off the baseboard and replace it with a newer style. Let me know if you have more questions šŸ˜‰

      Then this tutorial walks your through the toilet installation for an American Standard toilet

  100. Dan Brezovec says:

    Looking to remodel a 1070’s bathroom – area is a rectangle 65 inches wide by 144 inches deep – 5.5′ by 12′ – want to create a wet area with a tub and curbless shower and heat the enitr floor including the shower. Have watch numerous videos and read – kerdi-Schulter and Wedi seem like leading waterproofing options – Detri for floor heating — also have looked at TrueDek waterproofing system from Arcfirst

    Am struggling with how to make transition from bathroom floor to shower curbless and still make transition to bedroom where am installing a 3/4′ inch hardwood floor . the subfloor is 3/4 or 7/8 inch plywood – not sure as yet -so removing the subfloor, installing blocking to lower subfloor level with top of framing and then installing a sloped shower pan from Truedek or wedi gets me level with existing subfloor. Then use the Detri system to install electric heat and set tile over that .

    Can I install that over the shower pan ?

    I lie removing the subfloor in the shower area and using a Wedi or TrueDex shower pan.

    1. Great questions Dan. If you have 3/4″ plywood subfloors you’re in great shape to add a Wedi shower pan. You’re right about the blocking and we go into details on how to add the Wedi Ligno pan in this tutorial

      When you install the Ligno it’s 3/4″ and will be flush with the subfloor. Then you can add DITRA-HEAT to the subfloor and add the Wedi subliner at the DITRA/Wedi transition for a complete waterproof system.

      Not sure if you can add the DITRA-HEAT to the shower pan. You’d have to ask Schluter technical service about that. My personal shower is curbless and in a corner. The tile absorbs a lot of the heat from the water and isn’t terrible in the winter.

  101. Tess Norvell says:

    Hello. I’ve been on the www for hours looking for a bathroom-help tutorial. Yours are so welcoming and easy to understand. Thank you so much!
    I am soon to replace my bathroom floor…very small bathroom and I have no idea what I’m doing. What is the difference between Wonderboard and Kerdiboard. Can they be used on floor and walls? Thank you for your time.

    1. Thanks Tess. The web can be super confusing when it comes bathroom remodeling. I’d recommend checking your floor and making sure it’s level or mostly level. Depending on the condition you might be able to move forward and install Schluter DITRA on the subfloor. Then you could tile over that. We have some great tutorials on Home Repair Tutor. Here’s the link to the one on DITRA

  102. Chris says:

    Jeff, our guest bath was remodeled by the previous owner sometime in the past 10 years. It is a big space (9ft x 8ft) but a lot of it feels wasted. They installed a new claw foot tub that looks nice but it is really inconvenient for showers because the water gets everywhere. We end up having guests just shower in our master bath (which also needs a remodel, but that is another question). I would like to remove the claw foot tub and install either a stand up shower stall and separate tub or a tub/shower combo. The tile floor covers the whole room and seems to be pretty solid. Would it make sense to demo only a portion of the tile floor to install the shower/tub or do you think we should we just demo the whole floor? Thanks.

  103. Pan j says:

    Our oil rubbed bronze in the powder room has blue water scale and scrububbing doesn’t work. I tried the vinegar q-tip but the bronze turned copper! What else can I Do?

  104. Gilbert says:

    I have an old type of tub drain that has some type of round bar like feature(believe to have been a part of a drain stopper).I want to remove it but not sure how to.Also another issue is I have an old type of trap for the tub. It is about the size of an smaller coffee can and extremely difficult to access. It is in my ceiling of my pantry which makes it more difficult and how do I replace it since I have a extremely slow drainage.

  105. Bryan Bailey says:

    Ok, my subfloor is rotted out around the toilet, so I know that has to be replaced what I’m worried about is that the shower is literally right beside it and I’m worried that under the shower it did some damage and I’ll have to replace the shower pan, really sucks bc shower is in very good condition. What I want to do is tear out all subfloor and replace joists, it’s a peer & beam so I hope that will help me? It’s a very small half bath. How do I know if the shower pan is bad? What thickness do you recommend on the subfloor, I seen where you recommend putting down durarock also…..My budget is pretty low so maybe a paycheck at a time, I own the house so want to do it right! Where should I start just tearing out the rotting wood? First time putting down subfloor,I’ve layed tile In the kitchen so I know a little about durarock? I need some help with this bathroom and could really use some pro advice

  106. Charley Martin says:

    I have a small bathroom that I’m about to remodel. My hangup right now are the walls around the tub. I currently have the typical tub surround I bought from Home Depot 30 years ago. Thats coming out; I’ve thought about cultured marble walls (looks really easy to install) and also tiles. I’m hesitant with tiles because I’ve never done it. So that one area is holding me up.

  107. Justin says:

    Hi Jeff, saw your video on fix it stick. How would you use it on a T-intersecion? Desperate for you help. This has to be a DIY project and I haven’t had water for over a month. Please reply if you can. Thanks.

  108. Jodi Franklin says:

    I can’t get my toilet roll holder part to come off the cabinet wall, so that I can refix the set screw and put the hanging part that holds the roll back. The part that is on the cabinet looks like a telescope and on the bottom there is a hole and also there is a hole where the hanging part meets the telescope. What kind of screwdriver or allen key should I use to dismount the telescope? And when I do that what do I do next. The model is made by a company called Nystrom. Here is the url for the product I have.

  109. Spencer Hubbard says:

    like making home EASY

  110. MAURY N BONDURANT says:

    I am struggling to repair rotted plywood sub-flooring, wall plate and wall studs, in my walk-in shower and around the toilet.

  111. Darren says:

    what type tile is best for tub/shower walls?
    what type tile is best for bathroom floor?
    are larger tile best for small bathrooms?

  112. Kathy says:

    I am on a fixed income and I want to remodel my bathroom. The shower was leaking on the sides so I have some damage I also have to fix. I want to tile the back walls wear the shower goes and use the same shower pan as I have now. Then I want to tile the floors. My shower was a corner shower. It is a small bathroom . Has a toilet and a corner vanity sink. Do you have any suggestion to fix it up without costing me a ton of money? Also If I have someone do this what do I look for to make sure they know what they are doing and that they don’t overcharge me.

  113. Kay Jacobson says:

    My new kitchen cabinets have glass and there is silicone on the glass. How on earth do I remove it without destroying the cabinet door, etc?

  114. Pam says:

    I am redoing my guest bathroom. Two questions, 1. In pulling up my tile I found linoleum underneath it. What is the best way to pull up the old glue? 2. I would like to put in a wide niche on the long tub wall…3 foot by 18″ tall. Thoughts on a niche that long and how to give it support? Thought it would look good with some small tea light candles! The bathtub is surrounded by three walls and is 5′ x 30″.

  115. Jaclyn Kiser says:

    Hi! Currently remodeling our bathroom, house is over 100 years old! The bathroom is 2nd floor. Room is not totally square, and uneven as there were original hardwood floors installed directly over joists, which were covered with tar paper and two layers of linoleum. We tore out linoleum, left hardwood and added 1/4″ exterior grade plywood. Still need to level and install large porcelain tile planks. When we removed the free-standing tub, found a corrosion hole (small) in the bathtub drain pipe. So, how do I fix this without hiring a plumber? Also, best method to level the plywood subfloor and do a “medium mortar bed” for the large porcelain tile? At what point would we install an uncoupling membrane, vapor barrier, etc?

  116. Mary says:

    Im remodeling my bathroom but I notice that the roof beam is rotten how can I reinforce it? Im doing totaly new.

  117. Ken Williams says:

    Jeff I sent you my question,. In the email I also asked you if you would please call me I’m a finish Carpenter. And doing tile is a different animal.

    Okay what I’m dealing with is my mud seal I have a half inch of space to work with from the backer board which overlaps the mud seal plastic ring around my mixing valve.

    Okay I have a half inch of space to work with based on what I understand remember I’ve never told anything but I am a finish Carpenter.

    So I have 1/2 inch of space from my backer board that’s resting on or overlaps my mud seal for my Moen mixing valve. My tile porcelain tile 20 by 20 is38 thick, from what I understand I need to use about a 3/8 by 3/8 trowel back better my tile 3/8 and then do the same thing on my backer board if my math is right that puts me over why mud seal by 5/8. My mixing valve looks pretty perfect in the wall, I may be able to pull the mixing valve forward 1/2 moor, if my math is right I will still extend past the mud seal from 8th inch to 1/4 beyond the mud sill plate I can take a picture if you like. I have left my phone number in the email I’m hoping to hear from you but I think this is a very important question I don’t know why I haven’t seen anything on it every time I YouTube this question about the mud seal I don’t get anything that deals with it looking forward to hearing from you answering the question here but help anyone else for sure cuz I’m kind of in a jam I’m putting up my concrete backer board now

  118. Jim Nicholson says:

    Hello Jeff;
    I love your videos and the content overall and really appreciate how they are helping me confidently approach a double bathroom renovation. In one en-suite I am replacing the tub with a shower and I have been looking at the Schluter tub replacement kit (which seems to have everything you need to get the job done. It is expensive however when compared to the cement board option, yet for me simple and effective seems easiest, especially since the Schluter options comes with the shower pan at the right drain angles etc. What are your thoughts on a newbie using either? I have never tiled before but willing to give it all a go based on what I see in your videos, and now that I know about “back buttering”, I feel good to go…just need to confirm my substrate. Hope you have an opinion?

  119. nicole says:

    Hello Jeff,
    I have purchased a free standing acrylic tub for my bathroom. The floor has new hardi-board and I purchased porcelain tile. Should I use a waterproof AquaDefense on the hardboard before Premium Tile Adhesive (universal mastic)? I am planning on using the Schluter shower kit for the shower floor. I am wondering what is the difference between using hardboards withe the waterproofing felt vs. kerdi-boards?

  120. Lita Anderson says:

    Our biggest problem right now is we are running out of time and have found some “extra” surprises we had not counted on to get the job done in 3 weeks (by August 4th because my mom who is 96 is moving in then). There are leaks from a valve that had caused a lot of water/drywall damage to the basement bathroom as well as having to make the door wider to accommodate her wheelchair. Question: if we use Schluter Kerdiboard can we use it as a roll in shower? also, having a hard time finding someone in this area (North Central Washington State) who carries Kerdi board in stock. Thanks.

  121. Alan Milnes says:

    Hi Jeff and Steve,
    Fabulous videos boys. Very informative and helpful.
    I am a fairly handy guy and have done a lot of home reno over many decades – mostly carpentry, lots of drywall and drywall finishing, wiring, simple plumbing, masonry and decorating. I have never done a complete renovation on an exiting bathroom however and am looking for guidance. Demolition is complete in my bathroom. A new tub and drain has been installed and the water lines changed from poly B to pex using a licensed plumber to do so. I have removed about half of the drywall (behind the sink and toilet) because it will be faster to put up fresh drywall and mud and tape it than repair the junk that was already there. I am using Kerdi board around the tub with associated accessories from Schluter which will then be tiled. The drywall is behind the pedestal and toilet and on the wall opposing theses fixtures. I have purchased good old fashioned drywall, not green board or purple board as this area will not get wet like the area around the tub. The bathroom itself is only used occasionally by guests who stay in the attached guest room. But I am wondering should I be using only purple board and not regular drywall?

  122. Michael Damocles says:

    Jeff & Steve,

    I watched Steves’ video installing an Americast 5′ tub where Steve put 1/4″ plywood on the studs so that the wallboard would not bow out. My question is how high do you place the wallboard above the tub flange and what do you waterproof that gap between the tub flange and the bottom of the wallboard?

    Mike D

  123. Steve deatherage says:

    I’ve gutted the master bath and purchased a KBRS Tile Basin and Hardie Backer Board for the walk-in shower and tile for the shower, bathroom floor and walls (half way up and plan to paint above). Have removed the tile floor in bathroom. QUESTION IS: Can I just place the floor tile in bathroom on the plywood subfloor (3/4″ thick) or do you recommend I place Hardie board on the bathroom floor before installing the floor tile?

  124. Gloria says:

    Will I need a vapor barrier behind the Kerdi backer boards for a tub/shower that is located on an exterior brick wall or will that create a “mold sandwich”?
    I enjoy your videos—thanks!

  125. Amy M says:

    We are dealing with several issues right now. 1. Water between the tub liner and the cast iron tub beneath. We are removing the liner next weekend to see if the cast iron tub is salvageable or if we need a new liner. We have no clue what we are doing but we don’t want the tub to continue filling up with water. 2. Removing carpet in the bathroom and putting down locking laminate floor.. But we are lost about what to do with the toilet during the process… Then we are installing a new vanity.

    We put in an exhaust fan today! So many projects!

  126. Sara says:

    I have a non-standard sized alcove shower wit a drain that is also not centered, everything custom costs so much more, so i think the only thing is to do a custom tile job to redo it. Afraid of costs for custom work and if i can do it or not…I have done some diy stuff even tiling before bot never worked with kerdi,etc.

  127. Chase says:

    Hi Jeff,

    Loving your site! We just bought a house and are about to reconfigure one of the bathrooms to be a master and reconfigure the other with a claw tub. This requires moving some walls and plumbing. I understand fairly well now how to install a new shower and do much of the labor myself, but I’m wondering 2 things. 1 when reconfiguring a bathroom, when do you bring a plumber in to make the adjustments? Is it after the framing is up and a hole cut into the drain area? Same for a new sewage line? Also, are there good resources out there for getting the design done? I can do the labor myself but cannot create the design, would you recommend an architect for this, designer or someone else? Thanks so much.

  128. Hao says:

    I have a renovation going on in my bathroom and ensuite, ensuite is sized at 1.3m x3.5m and has shower and toilet only, bathroom has a freestanding bath and shower 1.3mx1m wide, total area size is 6.5sqm

    1. Should we be using 300x600mm tiles or 450mmx900mm tiles?? Which one will make the space appear larger and more airy?

    2. My ceilings are 3.5m high, should I tile all the way to the top or only to the top of the door?? The builder has mentioned to only tile to 2.5m high, in line with the doors etc and paint the rest?

  129. Elaine Dureault says:

    Hi Jeff,
    We are doing a complete remodling of our only bathroom. We are replacing a large window with a smaller one. The room will have everything replaced from floors to tub, vanity and laundry cabinets. It’s a big job and what we need more then anything is inspiration and know how and we will finally get started.

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