Shower valve replacement doesn’t have to be painful.
In today’s tutorial we share step-by-step how to install a new American Standard mixing valve. You’ll see how to solder copper to the brass valve and how to use PEX to make this project a lot easier.
In the end you’ll feel way more confident doing this yourself.
Let’s dive in.
Here are the supplies you need
- MAP-Pro Gas ($15) http://amzn.to/2rClqbN
- Bernzomatic TS8000 Trigger Start ($39) http://amzn.to/2rClqbN
- Oatey Plumbing Solder Kit ($17) http://amzn.to/2rPMzsZ
- 4-in-1 Tube and Fitting Brush ($10) http://amzn.to/2s43Ca8
- Copper Deburring Tool ($10) http://amzn.to/2s3TSNf
- Waterproof Emery Cloth ($10) http://amzn.to/2sAAhAV
- Copper Pipe Auto Cut Tool for 1/2″ Copper ($17) http://amzn.to/2rPGVab
- Copper Pipe Auto Cut Tool for 3/4″ Copper ($21) http://amzn.to/2soZxL0
- American Standard Mixing Valve ($50-$90) http://amzn.to/2qKL9LT
- Drop Ear Elbow for Shower Arm ($8) http://amzn.to/2sAndvg
- SharkBite Crimping Tool ($60) http://amzn.to/2s3YeEe
- Crimp Rings for 1/2″ PEX ($7 for 25) http://amzn.to/2spwgAe
- 90 Degree Copper Elbows for 1/2″ Pipe ($7 for 5) http://amzn.to/2qR6e6X
- American Standard Quintin Shower Trim Kit ($190) http://amzn.to/2sp0cfv
- Fire Extinguisher (FREE…You Should Have One)
- Barbed PEX Adapter for 1/2″ Copper ($1)
We partnered with American Standard on this project because it’s part of a series. Our goal is to show you how to remodel a small bathroom.
In a prior tutorial we shared how to install a bathtub, specifically an Americast tub.
After the tub is installed the next step is adding the shower valve.
Watch our video for the complete step-by-step instructions…
Shower Valve Replacement…What’s the First Step?
First things first, find the center location of the tub.
In this bathroom that was 14.5 inches from the stud on the exterior wall.
Follow your local plumbing codes to determine
- Shower Valve Height
- Tub Spout Height from the Tub
- Shower Head Height
For this project we decided the tub spout should be 3 to 4 inches off the tub deck.
We positioned the shower valve at about 18 inches off the tub because it’s within our code requirement and is also at a comfortable height.
The shower head height was set to 71 inches above the tub deck. We wanted it to be just above the top of the finished shower niche.
Solder Copper Pipe to the Shower Valve
Once you determine the location of the shower valve, tub spout, and shower head you’ll need to cut the pipes to size.
Autocut tools are great for this because they’re quick and painless.
Cut all the copper to size, clean the edges with emery cloth or a brush, and debur the pipe with a deburring tool.
Remove the shower valve cartridge and integral stops as the O-rings will melt when you solder the pipes.
Dry fit all the pipes to ensure they fit properly.
Apply solder to the pipes and inside the fittings.
MAP gas is the best for this project. It quickly heats up the copper and brass.
Evenly heat the copper/brass fittings. Then dab the fitting with solder.
When the solder starts to melt apply it to the fitting on all sides.
Wipe away excess solder with a rag.
Our video has more soldering tips. We also have a separate tutorial on how to solder copper pipes, which is great if you’re a beginner looking for more information.
PEX: Make Shower Valve Installation Easier
PEX makes shower valve installation a lot simpler.
You might be asking “why didn’t they use PEX for everything?”
Copper makes it easier to position the pipes plumb, or vertical, in tight bathroom walls.
You’ll see in the video that we check for plumbness using a level.
PEX can bend. And as a result this can create issues with positioning the tub spout and shower head.
But you could use PEX for all the connections except the tub spout. We still recommend using copper for that.
Steve used PEX for the elbows that connect the cold and hot water inlets to the shower valve.
You’ll need a crimping tool, crimp rings, and barbed copper fittings for PEX.
PEX cuts down on soldering inside the wall. This in turn reduces the likelihood of burning down your house.
Our video shares tips for using PEX and we also have a separate tutorial that goes into more detail.
The Final Steps
Shower valves usually come with a plaster guard.
This shows you how far the the shower valve should stick out from the wall.
In this example we needed the finished wall to be inside the plaster guard width.
We positioned a piece of 1/2″ OSB inside the stud wall. And this bumped out the plaster guard to the right depth.
Secure the shower valve using galvanized screws.
And double check that the tub spout is 3 to 4 inches from tub deck and centered on the tub drain.
In addition, check that the shower head drop elbow is plumb and centered on the tub drain.
Once this is done you’re finished with the shower valve.
The final step is to replace the cartridge and stops, add stoppers to the drop elbow & tub spout, and pressurize the system.
Check for water leaks and if there are none you’re good to go.
What’s Next
We hope you liked this tutorial.
If you’re looking for extra tips on bathroom remodeling these tutorials might come in handy
Bathtub Replacement in Old Bathrooms: Our Step-by-Step Guide
How to Waterproof a Shower: 3 Awesome Methods
Also, if you’re remodeling a bathroom grab our free guide, it’s pretty awesome and has tons of great tips.
Thanks as always for reading, watching, and being part of our awesome community.
Ask your questions below and we’d be happy to help.
Talk to you soon,
Great video, but what I really need is how to replace one AFTER the shower wall is in. Can anything be done from the front or will I need to work from the back? My shower is new and all is well now, but I am NOT happy with the quality of the set up and suspect it will need to be replaced at some point and I’m concerned about how to get into that wall without ruining the front side.
It will be tough to replace the valve from the front. If you have access from a back wall it’ll be a lot easier.